Mortgages: September 2018 Archives

This is a warning to those who purchase restricted sale property. I've gotten a couple of calls for refinancing these in the past couple months, and I've never covered this subject.

A restricted sale property is one where the identity of who can buy it and/or at what price they can buy it is restricted. Many local first time buyer programs restrict the conditions under which the property can be sold. The purchaser must be someone who has themselves qualified for their first time buyer program, the purchase price cannot be above the original purchase price plus a certain margin (usually reflecting a given percentage of Average Median Income for a given Metropolitan Statistical Area), or both.

These are by no means the only restricted sale programs. Many academic institutions have such property upon the grounds of their original endowment. There is a covenant which runs with the land that only faculty members or employees of the college or academy are allowed to purchase the property. I'm sure there are business employee restrictions and others.

This is a classic "good news - bad news" situation. At purchase, it's good news (mostly) because you typically get a far lower price than other, equivalent property, meaning you can afford it when you couldn't otherwise. At sale, however, it means you can't sell for a true market price because either the general public is prohibited from buying or the sales price is restricted by the bargain you made in order to purchase.

What this means is that if lenders have to foreclose upon such a property, they are pretty much up the creek. Such a property is unlikely to sell at auction, they can't just hire an agent and put it on MLS. If the property got beat up before the foreclosure (as happens quite often), it may not be something any of those eligible to purchase it are interested in.

Since it's not generally marketable, most lenders don't want to touch restricted sale properties. This means your loan choices are going to be restricted from the day you sign the purchase contract on. You will probably not be able to get a purchase money loan with most financial institutions. You almost certainly won't be able to refinance on favorable terms, even if everyone who bought without such a restriction can.

Typically, there are only one or two financial institutions willing to touch such a property, if any, and only through their own internal loan officers rather than through any brokers they may do business with. What's going on is that the restricted sale entity (usually a municipality or educational institution) has contracted with them to somehow take care of the problem if there is a foreclosure. This usually takes the form of taking over the property themselves and buying out the lender's Note.

For refinances, all of the above applies, even more strongly because one lender already has the indemnity contract; any others that you might have been able to choose between do not. This means your choices are limited to "refinance with that lender or not at all". Not a good situation to be in as regards to getting a good rate for a reasonable cost. Whatever they feel like offering you is what you get. Nor do you get the standard rates everyone else gets from that lender. You're not in the same situation as everyone else. You're in a special program where nobody else can lend to you because your property cannot be sold to the general public. You're almost certainly stuck with that one lender. It's not like you can go somewhere else.

Due to this lack of competition, expect the rates on loans for such properties to be above market average. Some are fairly close, but it seems an average of half to three quarters of a percent higher on the rate is what you're going to pay when you finance such a property. Furthermore, the only ones able to refinance may be the current lender, as nobody else has that indemnity contract from the restricted sale entity. Lender's don't want to take over your property - they want the loan to be repaid. But they must be able to take over your property and sell it on the market for a market price in order to accept your loan. Anything else is a violation of their duty to their stockholders and bondholders, as well as a violation of federal banking regulations. Since they can't do this, it shouldn't surprise anyone that most lenders can't touch a restricted sale property.

Caveat Emptor

Original article here

pfadvice talks about debunking a money myth and perpetuates one of his own. He took issue with someone refinancing to lower their monthly payment, insisting instead that the term of the loan was all important.

His point is understandable in that because folks tend to buy more house than they can really afford, they also tend to obsess about that monthly payment. The solution to this is simple to describe but it takes someone with more savvy and willpower than most to bring it off: don't buy more house than you can afford.

Actually, there is nothing that is all important, but if I had to pick thing as most important, it would be the tradeoff between interest rate and cost and type of loan. This is always a tradeoff. They're not going to give you a thirty year fixed rate loan a full percent below par for the same price as loan that's adjustable on monthly basis right from the get-go.

This tradeoff varies from lender to lender and also varies over time. Nor is it the same for borrowers with different credit, equity, or income situations, but it is always there. For a given borrower at a given time, any program which you can qualify for will have the rate/cost tradeoff built in. If you want them to pay your closing costs, you're going to have to accept a higher rate than if you're willing to pay two points. It is the relationship between whatever loan you have now, and the loans that are available to you, that determines whether it's a good idea to refinance. Focus on the real cost of the money: The interest rate, which determines what the cost of borrowing the money will really be, and the total upfront cost to get that loan, which breaks down into points and closing costs.

If you have a long history of keeping every mortgage loan you take out five years, ten years, or longer, then perhaps it might make sense for you to take out a thirty year fixed rate loan and pay some points. To illustrate, I'm going to pull a table out of an old article of mine because I'm too lazy to do a new one.

I'm intentionally using an old table, and rates are different now. The point is to examine your current loan in light of what's available to you now, and determine whether there's a loan that's worth the cost of doing. Maybe your equity situation has improved. Maybe your creditworthiness has improved. It's possible that something has deteriorated, and the loans that are available also vary over time with the state of the economy. If you've got a prepayment penalty that hasn't expired, remember to add the cost of getting out of that loan to the cost of your refinance, because it certainly changes the computations by adding a large previously sunk cost to the cost of your new loan. Whatever it is, the loans available to you now will be the total result of all of how all of the factors in the situation have changed.

I'm going to keep the example simple, assuming no prepayment penalties, and the third column is cost of discount points (if positive) or how much money you would have gotten in rebate (if negative), assuming the $270,000 loan I usually use. Add this to normal closing costs of about $3400 to arrive at the cost of your loan, thus:

(I had to break this table into two parts to get it to display correctly)

In the next tables, I've modified the results based upon some real world considerations. Point of fact, it's rare to actually get the rebate (typically, the loan provider will pocket anything above what pays your costs), and so I've zeroed out those costs. You take a higher rate, you're just out the extra monthly interest. The fourth column is your new balance, the fifth is your monthly payment. For the second table, I've duplicated rate and new balance for the first two columns, the third is your first month's interest charge (note that this will decrease in subsequent months), the fourth is how much you save per month by having this rate, and the fifth and final column is how long in months it will take you to recover your closing cost via your interest savings as opposed to the cost of the 6.375% loan, which cost a grand total of $25 (actually, this number will be slightly high, as interest savings will increase slowly, as lower rate loans pay more principal in early years).

However, let's look at it as if your current interest rate is 7 percent. Your monthly cost of interest is $1575, there, so let's see how long it takes to actually come out ahead with these various loans.

In short, since you're recovering costs quickly, it would make sense for folks with a rate of 7 percent to refinance in this situation, no matter how long they have left on their loan. For $25 total one time cost, they can move their interest rate down to 6.375, saving them $140 plus change per month. It's very hard to make an argument that that's not worthwhile. On the other hand, I would have been somewhat leery of choosing the 5.625% loan, as more than fifty percent of everyone has refinanced or sold within two years. However, if I have a solid history of going five years between refinancing, it makes a certain amount of sense, at least considered in a vacuum. Considered in light of the real world, rates fluctuate up and down. So I tend to believe that if I don't pay very much for my rate, I'm likely to encounter a situation within a few years where I can move to a lower rate for zero, or almost zero, whereas if I paid the $8125 for the 5.625%, rates would really have to fall a lot before I can improve my situation.

Do not make the mistake of thinking that the remaining term of the loan is more important than it is. You now have (assuming you took the 6.375% loan) $140 more per month in your pocket. Your payment will go down by more than that, but you're actually saving $140 per month in interest. It's up to you how you want to spend it. If you want to spend it paying down your loan more quickly, you can do that (providing you don't trigger a prepayment penalty, of course - but the loans I quoted didn't have one). Let's say you were two years into your previous loan. Your monthly payment was $1835.00. If you keep making that payment, you'll be done in 288 months; 48 months or 4 full years earlier than you would have been done under the original loan. So long as you don't trigger a prepayment penalty, you can always pay your loan down faster. Just write the check for the extra dollars and tell the lender that it's extra principal you're paying. I haven't made just the minimum payment since the first time I refinanced.

Many folks focus in on the minimum payment. By doing this, you make the lenders very happy, and likely your credit card companies as well. Not to mention that you are meat on the table for every unethical loan provider out there. It is critical to have a payment that you can afford to make every month, and make on time. But once you have that detail taken care of, look at your interest charges and how long you're likely to keep the loan, not the minimum payment or the term of the loan.

Caveat Emptor

Original here

How do I keep my home after filing bankruptcy. The Mortgage company wants to foreclose?

I want to know if there is anyway to keep the home even after filing chapter 7 bankruptcy. I want to know if there is any program that can assist me.

Bankruptcy does not effect your current mortgage. The only thing that will cause you to go into foreclosure is not keeping up your mortgage payments, period.

You don't have to include your mortgage in chapter 7, and it's not usually a good idea to do so if you have significant equity. Leave it out, and you even have a mechanism to restore your credit already in place, while limiting the damage the bankruptcy does. The larger the percentage of your lines of credit you include, the worse the hit is. Furthermore, if you have an open mortgage when your bankruptcy concludes, you're establishing post bankruptcy credit history, the best way to rebuild your credit. The poor folks who have to go get a new credit card get dinged even harder post bankruptcy for each turndown, so that each successive application lowers the probability their next one will be accepted. Positive feedback to a negative end. Vicious cycle.

Talk with a real lawyer in your state to be certain. I'm not a lawyer, and I don't even play one on TV. However, my understanding is that Mortgages are debt secured by a specific asset - the property. Keep up the payments on that (or bring it current if you haven't) and general creditors with unsecured debt cannot touch that asset in most states and most situations. There are exceptions, but owner occupied residential real estate is one of the most protected assets there is. The fact that it is a loan secured by a specific asset can also be used to avoid compromising the mortgage holder's interest.

The upshot is that if you make your payments on the property, and keep them current, quite often it can sail through a bankruptcy untouched. People will often let everything else go to keep making the payments on their mortgage - one of the reasons why mortgage rates are so favorable, compared to unsecured credit. Another issue I should mention is that while A paper does care about non-mortgage late payments, subprime generally doesn't. As long as you keep your mortgage payments current, you can often secure a loan on surprisingly good terms, even though it'll likely have a prepayment penalty. So keep your mortgage current if you can.

None of this is intended to encourage bankruptcy. But if you're heading for bankruptcy anyway, you want to limit the damage. The more lines of credit you can keep intact through the process, the better off you are in general. If you have six open lines of credit and only need to discharge one, that's much better for you than if you have to discharge all six. Your mortgage is the most important of these for restoring future credit and your own personal residence is protected from creditors more strongly than any other asset you may have. If you can keep that one debt current, it's usually making the best of a bad situation to do so, even if you have to let everything else go.

Caveat Emptor

Original article here